Black Vintage— Challenge to Malbec Character
Mr. Sammy Leung
Cahors, a red wine that has been popular since the Middle Age, is made with Malbec, a high-tannin, deep-coloured grape. Possessing dyeing properties, Malbec had been used to deepen the colours and strengthen the flavours of Bordeaux red wine for a long time before the 1950s. One may wonder if Malbec can be used to produce other types of wine. Jean-Luc BALDÈS, the seventh generation of Clos Triguedina winemakers successfully manufactured fortified red wine with Malbec. Black Vintage makes its debut in 2015.
Port is the most famous fortified sweet red wine in Europe, especially in Portugal, Britain and France. The best vintage Port is known for its intensely sweet taste and complex palate. However, its aeration requirement before consumption, relatively low acidity and astringent taste might not appeal to consumers.
Qualified as an Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP), BALDÈS Black Vintage has no restriction on creativity. As the master of Malbec, BALDÈS has produced 100 % Malbec to illustrate the incredible variety of this ancient grape. Having aged for three years in French oak, Black Vintage has matured fast and is thus available for drinking without the need for decantation. Known for its four terraces with varying altitudes, Cahors has provided a favourable environment for the manufacture of Black Vintage, made with fruits produced by vines grown on the limestone scree of the fourth terrace.
Being a Chevalier of Cahors, I had the privilege to taste a sample of the Black Vintage in early 2018, just before its launch onto the market. I was amazed by its elegance, good acidity and, in particular, its long and strong-flavoured yet balanced sweet finish. As a sommelier in both French and Chinese cuisine, I suggest serving this fortified wine as an aperitif. The Sud Ouest signature foie gras also goes well with it, which develops layers of dried plum, earth, truffle tastes if chilled a little bit. Black Vintage is also an excellent match for many Chinese dishes, such as Dongpo pork, Peking duck and Cantonese satay hot pot, which is slightly spicy. If drunk at room temperature, blue cheese and cigar fans will be in heaven.
Mr. Sammy Leung, an important wine critic in Asia, is Chevalier of Cahors wine region as well as the chair of the Wine and Spirits Judging Committee, Hong Kong General Chamber of Wine and Spirits.
Before, Mr. Sammy Leung was the Chairman of Hong Kong Wine Judges Association, and the chair of the Chinese Wine and Spirits Committee, Hong Kong General Chamber of Wine and Spirits.